Archive | March, 2010

Street Art of Istanbul

30 Mar

Istanbul’s back alleys can sometimes feel like a gallery with all the great street art that gets put up around town. Some of it is even commissioned by the businesses or building owners themselves. Here are some of the best pieces I’ve seen.

Malcolm X is just one of the famous faces stenciled around Istanbul. Others I've seen include Che Guevara, Ataturk and Barack Obama.

These two-fisted yellow arms can be seen all over the Beyoglu area of Istanbul. They must an artists signature. Though only drawing these yellow fists seems like a painter leaving a canvas blank except for his own name. Still, he manages some cool designs with the fists.

These yellow fists can be seen contorted into designs all over the Beyoglu district of Istanbul.

Another common stencil found around Beyoglu.

Myself in front of a mural promoting a small local movie theater in Taksim. I love the Bosphorus Bridge in this mural, connecting Europe and Asia.

This is the only Hummer I have seen in Istanbul, on the road or in a mural.

Part of the same mural as the Hummer above.

Pangea

Contemplating teachers and the scientific method

22 Mar

Get out of your comfort zone. Test your beliefs.

I have been thinking lately about teachers. About my teachers. About teachers I know or work with. About myself as a teacher. In my experience, a good teacher gives you knowledge but a great teacher gives you the ability and desire to acquire knowledge. Even after you’ve left their classroom.

I was lucky to have many great teachers. One that has been on my mind lately is my 7th grade science teacher, Mr. Rose. Mr. Rose was a balding, 30-year old hipster with an earring and a sense of humor. It was in his class that I first learned the scientific method. Observation, hypothesis, experiment, conclusion. Repeat. I struggled to grasp the process at first thinking it was a step-by-step procedure that must be memorized. It wasn’t until he told me the simple essence of the scientific method that I understood. You have an idea about the world around you. You make a conscious effort to find out if it’s true. After that, if it doesn’t make sense to you, you change your original idea. Then, test it against the world again. Not a process leading to a definite conclusion, but a never ending way to seek better, more accurate knowledge. Usually, of course, leading to a realization that you are wrong. Always finding more questions that answers.

Science was never my best subject, nor math. Any subject with a clear, distinct right and wrong answer never suited me. So, even up to my last science class in college I never thought much about the scientific method outside of the laboratory. Then, when I began to travel a few years ago, I realized that what Mr. Rose had taught me was not a method of science, but a method for all knowledge.

You begin with an idea, a hypothesis, whether from your own mind, from your parents’ mind, or from a book. You make a specific effort to use your eyes, your ears, your hands, your brain and your heart to examine the world around you – your experiment. You will discover, either your idea holds up or it doesn’t. Your conclusion. You choose to hold onto the hypothesis or reject it and form a new or revised one. But, like in science, you are never finished. You must continue to expand your data base. You must test your ideas and beliefs again and again and again by getting larger and more diverse samples. How do you do this? By traveling. The more you travel, the larger your sample size. Get out of your town. Get out of your country. Get out of your comfort zone. Gain a larger sample size by seeing, hearing and experiencing as much as you can. You may find yourself constantly revising what you thought you knew, but you always be moving towards more precise, accurate knowledge of the world around you. A hypothesis, a belief, left untested or under-scrutinized is not a fact, but only a guess. You must test everything. Accept nothing blindly. Question anything that disagrees with your senses, with this experiment we call life. What Mr. Rose taught me, was not a method for science, but a method for life. Thank you, Mr. Rose for giving me that revelation, even 10 years after I left your classroom.

Cappadocia Photos

20 Mar

Taylor and I spent the last few days exploring the Cappadocia region in central Turkey. The region is famous for its otherworldly landscapes carved out by millions of years of nature as well as being home to some early Christian history, including many churches and monasteries carved out of the caves.  Many of the caves are still used as homes, hotels and stores throughout the region.

A rock and cave formation outside of the town of Goreme, where we stayed.

One of the many paintings on the walls and ceilings of the cave churches at the Goreme Open Air Museum.

Another painting over the entrance to a cave church at Goreme Open Air Museum.

Taylor surrounded by a few of the rock formations just outside of Goreme.

The town of Goreme in the foreground with Mount Erciyes in the background.

And on the second day in Cappadocia, it snowed.

Taylor in the Kaymakli underground city. The underground cities in the region were used to hide from invading armies during the Hittite, Roman and Byzantine eras. This underground city included an estimated 500 chambers, not all of which have been excavated yet. The underground city had a stable, a winery and a multiple churches in addition to housing, common areas and ventilation shafts.

The town of Uchisar, as seen from Pigeon Valley.

Coming to America: Birth Tourism in the US

14 Mar

Coming to America, a hilarious 1988 Eddie Murphy comedy film, with absolutely nothing to do with this article.

“… Give me your tired, your poor,

Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,

The wretched refuse of your teeming shore,

Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,”

These words are inscribed on the Statue of Liberty and were written by Emma Lazarus in her poem “The New Colossus” in 1883. They sum up the beacon of hope that America once represented to the outside world. People of all creeds, classes and countries came here to find freedom, a better life and opportunity for their children. For the first 150 years of our country, this was our immigration policy: come one, come all and come together. Unfortunately, it seems that now, we have a new immigration policy: send us your rich, your privileged and those who can afford a tourist visa.

In the last decade the debate over immigration in the United States has focused wholly on Mexico. The question seems to be, not who to let in, but how high to build the wall. While we have argued over how best to keep out these immigrants, which I think we can correctly describe as tired, poor and yearning to breathe free, it seems we have been letting the world’s upper classes have a free pass into citizenship through something called “birth tourism.”

Birth tourism, highlighted in this weekend’s English version of the Hurriyet Daily News and Economic Review, is the process through which citizens of other countries travel to the United States and sometimes Canada to give birth, thus granting their child citizenship to that country. It should be no surprise to Americans that foreigners want to obtain citizenship for their children. What is surprising, though, is that this is not a black market activity, but a burgeoning cottage industry across the globe. According to this weekend’s article, 12,000 Turks have been born in the United States through birth tourism since 2003. The number is certainly higher in many East Asian countries where this is more common, such as South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Singapore. The companies quoted in this weekends Hurriyet provide packages complete with airfare, hotel accommodations, standard tourist activities and of course, medical costs. Depending on the city in which you want to give birth, the minimum cost is between $25,000 and $40,000. And this high cost is the main obstacle to purchasing a birth tourism package, and so it would seem, to American citizenship. As Kim Jeong Yeon, the expectant Korean mother in the 2002 LA Times piece said, “If they could afford it, all my friends would go to the United States to have their babies.”

The law that allows people to become citizens through birth on our soil is written into our Constitution, in the 14th Amendment. Passed in 1868, it was intended to end abuses against former slaves following the Civil War and in no way could have predicted the ease of international travel 140 years into the future. So, while this practice may be controversial and possibly morally questionable, it is also perfectly legal.

Despite the proliferation of this practice around the world, it is something Americans seem largely unaware of. A search of some of our nations most trusted news sources brings up only a few pieces. One from the LA Times in 2002 entitled “Korean moms want ‘Born in USA’ babies,” and another in Slate Magazine from June 2009 called “Why I Left Pakistan to Give Birth in US.”

The reasons people turn to birth tourism are no different than the reasons an expecting Mexican mother might cross the border. One of the main reasons is a better education. For a poor migrant worker, it may be that their child gets any education at all, while for a wealthy Korean or Turk, it is the ease to which university studies in the US can be obtained. Another reason is job opportunities. Again, for the Mexican mother, it may be an opportunity for her child to get any work at all, for the South East Asian, an easier time being hired by large American companies after a professional education. One reason though, may be different. The Korean mother, Kim Jeong Yeon, wanted to give her son the gift of avoiding the compulsory military service required of all South Korean men.

If the reasons for giving birth in America are similar, what then separates a potential illegal alien being turned away by border patrol and a tourist coming from abroad, both wanting to give birth? Well, it seems, only the ability to purchase a tourist visa and a plane ticket. This seems an extremely poor test of citizenship for the country that once declared “Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to be free.”

HD Time Lapse Views of Istanbul

13 Mar

In my inbox this morning was a press release from a website called HDtimelapse.net telling me they had just recorded time lapse videos all over Istanbul. Better yet, they are free for a regular download (you must pay for HD quality). Check out the city from many hot spots, including Aya Sofya, the Galata Tower, The Grand Bazaar, and the Bosphorus Bridge. A very cool site indeed. Check it out here.

I’m sorry football, we’re just not that into you.

8 Mar

The cultural importance of football in Istanbul, and in most of the world I’m guessing, cannot be understated. It plays constantly on every TV in every cafe and pub here. When there is an important match, my evening classroom is empty. Asking what team someone roots for reveals as much about a person as asking what their job is. And yet, football, I’m just not that into you.

Being from the one and only country where football is not an ingrained part of our culture, I am asked constantly why I don’t like it by students, other teachers and friends. I usually can’t do any better than to say it’s slow, boring and anti-climactic. The other day as we were watching the Canada – USA gold medal hockey game, a British teacher asked me why I don’t like football. When I could only respond that it was boring, he replied that was pretty vague and ethnocentric, as he finds American football boring as well. He was right, it is ethnocentric to leave my answer at “it’s boring.” He is also right that it football represents a cultural disparity between America and the rest of the world. Everyone else seems to love the sport, but we Yankees tend to shrug it off. So, here I want to try and explain what exactly it is about football that we can’t stand. I offer this not as criticism, but as an explanation. To do so, I will have to borrow a few ideas, giving credit where due, of course.

One of the most common things I hear when I tell people I don’t like football is that it is the most popular sport in the world. People say this as if popularity and quality are inextricably linked. This drives me insane. Think of the best selling musicians, or most watched films or television shows. They are rarely those of highest quality. Much more often they are of the lowest common denominator. The best selling albums worldwide of 2009 were those of Lady Gaga, Susan Boyle and The Black Eyed Peas. Quality is, of course, subjective (thank you, Robert Pirsig). But, no one would dare tell me these are the best, the most talented or the most creative musicians and singers the world has to offer. The highest grossing films of last year include Harry Potter, an Ice Age sequel, a Transformers sequel, and a Twilight sequel. None of those are exactly The Godfather. My point is simply that popularity does not necessitate quality. The best metaphor for this comes from a book called How Soccer Explains the World by Frank Foer. I don’t have the book on hand, but I believe he lifted this idea from the Wall Street Journal. The theory goes that soccer is like rice. Football is the most popular sport in the world. So what? Rice is the most popular food in the world, not because it’s the most delicious. It’s the most popular, like football, because it’s cheap, available and can be mixed with an abundance of other cheap, available things such as vegetables. Football does not require any equipment, sometimes little more than a rock, a few socks and some tape to hold it together will suffice for a ball. Any open field or dirt road can be a field. This means everyone, everywhere, has the opportunity to play under any conditions, while other sports, like basketball, require a ball that can bounce and a makeshift hoop. I’m sure those who live on a diet of only rice would gladly trade it in for a steak if they could. Well, except in India.

As for why football has not and will not take hold as a cultural element in America, it can get a little complicated. The pop culture writer Chuck Klosterman has offered the best explanation I have come across in his book Sex, Drugs and Cocoa Puffs. His theory tries to tie together a few facts. One, that for decades football fanatics have said their sport is a growing force in America, yet, it has not reached much success past the youth stages. Two, that football is the most popular sport for children to play until they reach about 12 years old, then participation drops off significantly. Klosterman puts forth that the reason football is so popular with children is that it allows them to hide in plain sight. When a child plays baseball, he will be forced to perform in front of others or face ridicule every time he steps to the plate. All eyes are on him. In American football, each play depends on each player performing and winning individual battles. It also has a lot of violence, aggression and a high risk of injury. In basketball, there are only 5 players from each team on the court at a time, forcing all 5 to participate actively. But, in football, the number of players and the slow action allows kids to be on the field without ever facing a pressure situation or risking bodily harm. In America, it is the sport for children who don’t like sports. This satisfies the parents needs for their children to participate in sports and be physically active, while children can avoid the pressure of having to perform individually. This also explains the dramatic drop in participation around the age of 12. At this age, children are old enough to choose whether they play sports or not and their parents will usually respect their wishes. This is also the age that coaches in all sports step up their demands on players. They require a higher level of commitment and ability from this age forward. We Americans know that professional players are much different than children and are not trying to hide in plain sight. But, when we see grown men rolling on the ground and faking injuries – a sign of weakness in our country – it reinforces our view that football is the sport for those who couldn’t hack it at basketball, baseball or American football. In addition, the stigma of football being a less competitive sport for American youth, means all of our most talented athletes pursue sports where they can shine brighter and have more individual attention, such as baseball, basketball or American football. This clearly isn’t the case in the rest of the world, but it is the culture surrounding football in America.

Another theory perpetuated by numerous people is that football fits with the majority of the world’s view of life, while it doesn’t mesh with the American paradigm. Proponents of this theory say that in football, merit, strategy and hard work do not guarantee victory. They say there is a higher element of luck and outside influence from the crowd, the referees and injuries. They assert that this is the same as the fans outlook on life. That success in life is not based solely on merit, strategy and hard work but has a great deal to do with influence beyond the individuals control. This goes against the supposed American paradigm which dictates that anyone with enough grit and determination can pull themselves up by their bootstraps. Personally, I think this is bullshit. Tell anyone of the 30 or so million unemployed people in America right now that the reason they aren’t successful is because they lack talent and work ethic and you are liable to be punched in the face. Moreover, the same blind luck that plays into football is at work in every American sport as well. Referees, crowds and injuries play the same role in American football, baseball and basketball as in football. Yet, many will continually cite this as the reason football can’t garner support in the states.

The last theory I offer is another mentioned in Frank Foer’s How Soccer Explains the World, but one I have seen evidence for here in Turkey. Football fanatics seem to support their team based on a lot of elements. Each team has a distinct personality that people connect to. Where as in America, your favorite team is usually a matter of geography, of where you live or where you are from. When working as a sportswriter in America, it was common to chastise people who pick and choose teams from across the country based on their success or their players. We’d call them disloyal, fair-weather fans, etc. In football, though, your team is not a matter of geography alone, but a matter of many things including politics, history and an individual’s personality. And, when it comes to an international competition, the political element gives even the most mind-numbing 0-0 tie an incredible cultural depth. This is just not a part of America’s athletic views. We see sports in a much more gladiatorial sense. Put the biggest, strongest, fastest and most athletic people in one place and see who comes out ahead. When compared to the rest of the world, there is a stunning lack of nationalism and political significance in American sports, even in international competition. Without that element, it leaves football in America a one-dimensional, hollow shell of the game played in most places.

The possibilities of dissecting this cultural disparity between America and the rest of the world are endless. A psychologist or a cultural anthropologist could have a field day exploring the issue. But the point remains, Americans will never be football hooligans. Again, I am not trying to criticize football as a game. I am only trying to explore the possible explanations for my own and most Americans lack of interest in the sport. And, to be better prepared next time I am asked “What do you Americans have against football?” What are your thoughts? Why don’t Americans like football? Add a comment and let us know!

The Ministry of Travel

2 Mar

Our world is infested with platitudes and clichés. This is a shame. What we now consider an ugly oyster may contain a pearl of wisdom. A picture is worth a thousand words. Think outside the box. A rolling stone gathers no moss. We hear them every day without thinking about what they actually mean. Try to remember that before these words became annoying sayings, they were original ideas. I am thinking, specifically, about the golden rule. Love your neighbor as yourself. Do unto others as you would have done unto you. There are countless manifestations of this same sentiment. We hear it said every day. But just because it is commonplace to hear it, doesn’t mean it is commonly adhered to. And, to be sure, it doesn’t mean the advice isn’t worth following.

Our civilization is at a dark place. People are disconnected, distrusting and disenfranchised. If we needed to adhere to the golden rule at any time, it is now. We live in a world remarkably different from the world of our parents and grandparents. The world’s population has exploded in the last 100 years from 1 billion people to nearly 7. Our lifestyle is quickly outstripping our resources. In developed nations, knowledge that couldn’t have been accumulated in many lifetimes in the past, is now available at the click of a mouse. In many third world nations, though, clean water, ample food and a peaceful way of life is a dream. However, travel between these two worlds is now faster, cheaper and more accessible than ever before; and, it may be the one thing that can connect and save these two worlds. Travel is the only way I see for people and societies to connect again. Through this, our Western world can check its greed and rediscover its ethics and the third world can benefit from an end to exploitation and indifference from fellow man.

Our world is changing. That is certain. But the problems that plague us are the same. Nations go to war for the same reasons they did thousands of years ago – religion, resources and security. People act divisively and skeptically out of fear instead of acting out of compassion and recognition of all they have in common.

In America, our recent decline can be seen in these terms. We are locked in wars for which we can scarcely recall our reasons for entering and for which we can hardly identify a benefit. We are heatedly debating the value of giving every man, woman and child reasonable healthcare, as if human dignity is a political issue. The banks and financial institutions that led us into turbulence hand out millions of dollars in bonuses to their top thieves. The question isn’t why do they deserve this money. The question is, how can any man want this money when the car it buys drives past dozens of unemployed and homeless families on its way to work everyday?

These are not new problems. Religious fanaticism, unchecked greed. They are the same problems that plagued and ruined every great empire. So why is our world of nation-states so intent on meeting the same end? Why must we look to exploit, rather than look to aid?

It is simple. We worship at a cult of money. We have nurtured our natural greed to an inhumane point, and given it a politically correct name – capitalism. The word brings to mind soaring bald eagles, freedom and liberty. But what good is this word, this system, if it acts as a veil to suffering and acts as a barrier between the haves and the have-nots. I cannot and will not say that capitalism is an inherently bad system. It is the only system I know. But I can say without a doubt that it is a flawed and incomplete system. On its own, capitalism has led not to widespread prosperity, but to widespread exploitation and indifference. What makes capitalism good, if does not benefit the majority? In this case, a rising tide has lifted few boats and sunk entire fleets.

Capitalism has potential, and its potential is not unlike that of every person working within its system. To achieve it, it must have at its heart an attitude of benevolence to all people. It must be important to pay living wages, to have jobs for everyone, to take care of the disabled and elderly. Padded wallets cannot protect against the suffering of others. But this is not the world we live it. Yet.

Is this world possible? How can we achieve it? It comes from an idea as old as the problems we face. We must treat others as we want to be treated. We must recognize ourselves in others. The suffering we see in others is potential suffering in ourselves. We must rediscover the golden rule and realize it applies not only to our neighbor, to our race, to our socio-economic bracket, or even to our countrymen. It applies to everyone. The acknowledgement of universal human dignity alone can cause a revolution in our way of life. Only in recognition of this can we end the cycle of violence, poverty and inequality. Some will always say that this is a dream. That this is impossible. These people are part of the problem, and I challenge them to become part of the solution. Another cliché tells us we reap what we sow. Let these people sow benevolence and goodwill and watch their apathy fade.

The big question is this: how do we get society to see the ubiquitousness of the human condition? The answer: one at a time. We get people to travel. And not travel to a beach to sip fruity cocktails and get a tan. But travel to transform. Travel to grow, to learn and most importantly to get out of your comfort zone. This will be difficult for Americans. Americans like safety. Our whole political reality is based on this: we want our family to be safe, our job to be safe, and most importantly, our money to be safe. So, it is no surprise that most Americans try to travel as safely as possible. We stay in palaces, put too much faith in guidebooks and wander in fear of turning down the wrong street or eating food from the wrong street vendor. For safety’s sake, we put up a wall dividing local and tourist. We need to break this artificial barrier and see the world for what it is: people. Masses of the same cells, tissues and organs, no matter where you go. We cannot think of traveling outside our comfort zone as a dangerous undertaking. We must regard it as a natural adventure of the human spirit. Instead of separating ourselves from the culture we enter, we should be immersing ourselves in it. Enjoy not just its beauty, but accept it as is, warts and all. Think of yourself as a guest in their home and enter with an open heart instead of open disgust. Try the food, accept invitations from strangers and make the effort to learn a bit of the language. Be gracious that they have let you into their country and culture and don’t presume they should be grateful to have you just because you bring money. Once the artificial barriers we construct are torn down, we are left with common humanity. This, I know, will bring compassion.

I understand that not everyone can travel. People have kids to raise and mortgages to pay. This is why you must travel while you are young. Before you have too many obligations. Before you create a reason not to. And most importantly, before cynicism and ethnocentrism has lodged too deeply into your brain. I believe that every young person can find a way to travel. The opportunities are there. If you are a college student, you can study abroad. If you are a graduate, you can join the peace corp. If you are a bum like me, you can teach English. I am living, breathing proof that if you want to see the world, you can do it. It takes a little planning and a lot of work and faith, but the rewards are endless.

We must, as a society, place an importance on traveling as education. We must encourage young people to travel, to see the world, and to report what they find. Expand the peace corp. Promote English teaching programs. Spread the idea that a classroom education is insufficient. A degree or diploma should be a supplement to the knowledge gained through your own senses. Challenging your senses, perceptions and ideas with travel expands your knowledge in a way no book, class, or job can. From these ideas, we will create a Ministry of Travel. Not a governmental body, but a network of people, young and old, who preach and spread the knowledge and rewards that come from traveling. They will inspire others and be a catalyst for moral reform. Social justice will emanate from their lives and words as effortlessly as the love for humanity they have fostered.

Once we have a generation of young people who desire to see the world, we will have human dignity again and can return to the idea of social justice. How can we destroy people – whether with bombs or balance sheets – when we have sat down to tea with them? Then, perhaps, the Mercedes will be meaningless if it drives past homeless families.

I have faith that this is possible. I see it in my young, educated friends. They want to travel. Some join the peace corp, others teach abroad. Some save money for months working low-wage no-respect jobs, only so they can afford trip after trip after trip. Travel and seeking knowledge is their lifeblood. Whatever the method, the madness for travel and exploration is there. We must fan this flame, encourage it and spread its light. We are the bare bones, the foundation that will become the Ministry of Travel. Experiencing other cultures is cheaper and easier than ever before. Good thing too, because this is the most promising way to return our country and our world to a society based not on greed but on the golden rule, social justice and human dignity.

Public Service Announcement

1 Mar

This is a public service announcement, from one member of the public to the rest.

In 1945 the population of Istanbul was 1 million people. Today, most estimates range around 18 million. In 1900 there were 1 billion people on this planet. Now, there are nearly 7 billion. People, please. Stop procreating. That is all.

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